Zagreb

Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, remains one of Europe's most underrated city breaks — a Central European capital with a Viennese grace, excellent café culture, world-class museums and a vibrant urban life that seems largely undiscovered by the international tourism that Croatia's coast attracts in such numbers. The city divides between Gornji Grad (Upper Town) — the medieval and Baroque hilltop quarter with the Cathedral, St. Mark's Church with its colourful tiled roof, the Croatian Parliament and Government buildings — and Donji Grad (Lower Town), the 19th-century grid of grand boulevards, parks and major cultural institutions. The Museum of Broken Relationships (objects and stories from failed relationships, donated from around the world) is one of the most original and moving museums in Europe. The Zagreb City Museum, the Croatian Museum of Naive Art and the Mimara Museum all have strong collections. The Dolac covered market, operating daily above Ban Jelačić Square, is a vibrant and excellent source of local produce, honey, cheese and flowers. Zagreb's café culture — in the Tkalčićeva pedestrian street and the Bogovićeva strip — runs all day and into the night. The food scene is evolving well, with a growing number of creative modern Croatian restaurants. Day trips to Plitvice Lakes National Park (2 hours) and Samobor are excellent. Zagreb is significantly cheaper than Western European capitals.