Thessaloniki is Greece's second city and arguably its most vibrant — a port city in northern Macedonia that has been a major urban centre since antiquity, successively ruled by Romans, Byzantines, Ottoman Turks and Greeks, each leaving monuments and cultural layers that make it one of the most historically rich cities in the Mediterranean world. The Byzantine monuments of Thessaloniki are a Unesco World Heritage ensemble — the Rotunda (a Roman mausoleum converted to a church), the Arch of Galerius, the Church of Hagia Sophia (predating its Istanbul namesake) and the extraordinary Basilica of Saint Demetrius (filled with ancient mosaics) are all within walking distance. The White Tower on the waterfront is the city's symbol. The Archaeological Museum holds treasures from ancient Macedonia, including finds from royal tombs of Philip II's era. The Ano Poli (Upper Town), the old Ottoman neighbourhood of wooden houses and winding lanes climbing the hills above the Byzantine walls, is one of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods in Greece. The city's food culture is exceptional — Thessaloniki makes a serious claim to being the food capital of Greece. Mezedes culture, bougatsa (custard pastry), trigona (pastry filled with cream) and an extraordinary variety of fresh fish and meat dishes are available in the tavernas around the Modiano Market. The nightlife is genuine and local. An excellent city any time of year.
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