Nicosia

Nicosia (Lefkosia in Greek, Lefkoşa in Turkish) is the world's last divided capital — a city cut in two by the United Nations Buffer Zone (the "Green Line") since 1974, when Turkish forces occupied the northern third of Cyprus following a Greek coup. Crossing the border at the Ledra Street checkpoint — a former sniper's alley converted to a pedestrian crossing — is one of the most unusual travel experiences in Europe. The walled old city on the Greek Cypriot side contains the Venetian walls (among the finest surviving examples of Renaissance military architecture in the world), the Archbishop Makarios Cultural Centre with its excellent Byzantine museum, and the Cyprus Museum, the island's finest archaeological collection. The Famagusta Gate is well-restored and used as a cultural centre. The Liberty Monument and the Pancyprian Gymnasium (one of the oldest schools in the world) add historical depth. Crossing to the Turkish Cypriot north (with an EU passport; no Cypriot visa required to re-enter Greek Cyprus) reveals a very different atmosphere — Ottoman mosques (many former churches), the Büyük Han caravanserai converted to artisan workshops and cafés, and a slower pace of life. The Selimiye Mosque (formerly Hagia Sophia Cathedral of Nicosia, the coronation church of Crusader kings) is magnificent. Nicosia's restaurant and bar scene has improved considerably. The best times to visit are spring and autumn.