Marseille

Marseille is France's oldest city and its most misunderstood. Founded by Greek sailors in 600 BC at a natural harbour on the Mediterranean coast, it has always been a port city and a city of immigrants — and that identity, messy and vivid and gloriously multicultural, is exactly what makes it so compelling to those who give it a chance. The Vieux-Port (Old Harbour) remains the beating heart of the city, lined with fish restaurants and bouillabaisse specialists — the local saffron-scented fish stew is a religious experience when made properly. The Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica perches on the city's highest hill, offering spectacular views of the city, the harbour and the Mediterranean islands. The MUCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations) is a spectacular contemporary building on the harbour with excellent exhibitions. Beyond the centre, Marseille rewards adventurous exploration. The Calanques — dramatic white limestone fjords accessible by foot, kayak or boat — are among the most beautiful natural features on the French Riviera. The Estaque neighbourhood, where Cézanne and Braque developed Cubism, retains an authentic village atmosphere. The vibrant North African and Middle Eastern community in Belsunce and Noailles adds extraordinary food markets and street food. Visit in spring or autumn; the Mistral wind can make winter uncomfortable.