Lviv

Lviv (Lwów/Lemberg), the cultural capital of western Ukraine, is one of Central Europe's most beautiful and historically complex cities — a place that has been Polish, Austrian, briefly Nazi-occupied and then Soviet, and whose architectural layers tell that complicated history with extraordinary vividness. The old town, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is remarkably intact — Gothic churches, Renaissance and Baroque facades, ornate Art Nouveau buildings and Habsburg-era coffee houses create an atmosphere closer to Krakow or Vienna than to other Ukrainian cities. The Market Square (Rynok Square) is one of the finest in Central Europe, surrounded by Renaissance townhouses and centred on the Town Hall tower with excellent views. The High Castle (Vysoki Zamok) hill park gives panoramic views over the city's roofscape. The Pharmacy Museum in a still-functioning 18th-century pharmacy, the Arsenal Museum and the Lychakiv Cemetery (where Polish, Ukrainian and Austrian notables are buried) are all excellent. The Latin Cathedral, the Armenian Cathedral and the Dormition Church reflect the city's historically diverse religious communities. Lviv's café culture — centred on the excellent Lviv Coffee Manufactory and dozens of charming independent coffee houses — is the city's best-known social institution. Ukrainian cuisine here is excellent and very affordable. Always check current travel safety advisories for Ukraine before visiting.