Ljubljana

Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is one of Europe's most pleasant and overlooked small capitals. A city of just 280,000 people, it has a beautifully preserved Baroque and Art Nouveau old town, the Ljubljanica River running through the centre, an impressive hilltop castle, and a café culture that fills every terrace from spring to autumn. Its combination of Central European elegance and Alpine freshness is uniquely appealing. The triple bridges (Tromostovje) designed by Jože Plečnik, Slovenia's architectural genius who transformed Ljubljana in the interwar period, are the city's most distinctive feature; his market colonnade, National and University Library and covered market along the river are all architectural gems. The Ljubljana Castle on its hill above the old town offers excellent views. The dragon — Ljubljana's symbol, featured on four bridges — appears throughout the city in surprising places. The restaurant and café culture along the riverside terraces is excellent and affordable by Western European standards. Slovenian cuisine — štruklji (rolled dumplings), žlikrofi (stuffed pasta), potica (rolled nut cake) — is distinctive and underrated. The Metelkova alternative cultural centre, a former military barracks, is a fascinating counterpoint to the polished old town. Ljubljana is the perfect base for exploring Slovenia: Lake Bled (45 minutes), the Soča Valley and Triglav National Park are all accessible. Visit in spring or summer for the best outdoor café culture.