Gozo

Gozo, Malta's smaller sister island (67 square kilometres), offers everything that Malta has — Megalithic temples, dramatic limestone cliffs, clear blue seas and fascinating history — but in a slower, quieter, more rural register. The island has a fraction of Malta's tourism infrastructure, which is precisely its appeal: it rewards those who hire a car and explore at their own pace. The Citadel of Victoria (Rabat), Gozo's fortified capital on a prominent hilltop, is the island's most dramatic sight — its medieval walls, cathedral (with a magnificent trompe-l'oeil painted ceiling), the Archaeological Museum and the panoramic views from the bastions make it excellent. The Azure Window (a dramatic limestone arch that collapsed into the sea in 2017 after a storm) is gone, but the Dwejra inland sea and the surrounding cliff-and-cave coastline remain spectacular for boat trips. The Ggantija Temples (UNESCO, 3600 BC) are the oldest freestanding stone structures in the world. Marsalforn in the north and Xlendi in the south are the island's main resort villages, both excellent for swimming, diving and kayaking. The salt pans at Marsalforn, carved from the limestone centuries ago, are photogenic. Gozo's food is excellent — ftira bread, fresh fish from local boats, local wines and honey. The island is connected to Malta by a frequent 25-minute ferry from Ċirkewwa. A relaxed week on Gozo — cycling, swimming, eating well — is one of the finest low-key Mediterranean experiences available.