El Paso

El Paso, Texas, sits at the western tip of the state on the Rio Grande across from Ciudad Juárez, Mexico — one of the largest bi-national metropolitan areas in the world, a place where American and Mexican cultures merge in a way that is entirely genuine and not curated for visitors. The Franklin Mountains, rising 3,000 feet directly through the city, create a dramatic urban landscape. El Paso's character comes from its borderland position — the food is Texas-Mexican (Tex-Mex) in a way that predates the national franchise version by generations. L&J Café (since 1927), Chico's Tacos and H&H Car Wash and Coffee Shop (an institution) are local institutions. The El Paso Museum of History and the El Paso Museum of Art (with a strong Spanish Colonial collection) are worth visiting. Fort Bliss, one of the largest military installations in the US, is adjacent to the city. The Franklin Mountains State Park, running through the city, offers excellent hiking and the Wyler Aerial Tramway cable car. Hueco Tanks State Park (45 minutes east), with its rock art paintings and rock climbing, is outstanding. Ciudad Juárez across the border has improved significantly and its markets and restaurants are accessible with appropriate caution. The Ysleta del Sur Pueblo, the oldest mission in Texas (1682), is in El Paso. The drive along the Rio Grande through the farmland of the Mesilla Valley to Las Cruces, New Mexico, is lovely.