Edinburgh

Medieval castle, whisky trails and the world's greatest arts festival.

Edinburgh is one of the world's great cities for atmosphere — a brooding, dramatic, theatrical place built on volcanic rock, its Gothic skyline silhouetted against grey skies in a way that feels distinctly literary. The Scottish capital divides neatly between the medieval Old Town (climbing from the Royal Mile up to Edinburgh Castle) and the Georgian New Town (an 18th-century masterpiece of planned urban development), and the contrast between them encapsulates the city's layers of history. Edinburgh Castle, perched on the volcanic plug of Castle Rock above the city, contains the Scottish Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny. Holyroodhouse Palace at the other end of the Royal Mile is the Queen's official Scottish residence. In between, the Old Town's closes and wynds (narrow passages) conceal museums, whisky experiences, ghost tours and the graves of famous Scots. The Scottish National Museum on Chambers Street is free and excellent. Edinburgh's arts festivals — the Edinburgh Festival and Fringe (August) — constitute the world's largest arts festival, transforming the city for a month every year. The Hogmanay (New Year's) celebrations are legendary. The restaurant and bar scene has improved dramatically in the past decade: Scottish gin distilleries, excellent seafood, creative modern Scottish cooking. Day trips to the Highlands, St Andrews and the Borders are all accessible. Visit in August for the festival, or December for festive atmosphere with fewer crowds.