Dublin

Dublin is a city of stories, conversation and craic — the Irish concept of good times and good company that is absolutely genuine, not a tourist fabrication. The Irish capital sits at the mouth of the River Liffey on the east coast, compact enough to explore on foot but with enough depth and character to reward extended stays. The city's literary heritage is exceptional. James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats and Jonathan Swift all walked these streets, and their presence is everywhere — in pub names, memorial plaques, the Writers Museum and the Long Room of Trinity College Library, which houses the Book of Kells, one of the world's most celebrated medieval illuminated manuscripts. The National Museum of Ireland and the National Gallery are both free and excellent. Dublin's pub culture is integral to Irish social life. A traditional session in a snug of the Mulligan's or the Kehoe's — live fiddle music, a pint of Guinness, conversation flowing freely — is an experience worth seeking out. The Guinness Storehouse is a slick visitor attraction with good views from the rooftop. Beyond the city, the Wicklow Mountains, Glendalough and the Howth Head coastal walk are all day-trip distance. Visit in May–September for the best weather and the most festivals.