Cincinnati

Cincinnati, Ohio, sits on the Ohio River across from Kentucky — a city of Victorian architecture, excellent arts institutions, a food culture centred on the extraordinary chili variation invented here (Cincinnati chili served over spaghetti with cheese and beans — unusual but genuinely excellent once understood), and one of the finest collections of Rookwood pottery in the world. The Cincinnati Art Museum (free permanent collection) holds an excellent survey of world art, particularly strong in Native American work, and houses the world's largest collection of Rookwood art pottery (Cincinnati-made, distinctive glazed ceramic work from 1880–1967). The Contemporary Arts Center, in a Zaha Hadid building, is architecturally striking. The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, at the riverfront, is one of America's most important history museums — the Ohio River was a critical crossing point for enslaved people escaping north. Cincinnati chili, served as "three-way" (chili, spaghetti, shredded cheddar), "four-way" (add onions) or "five-way" (add beans), is the city's most distinctive food tradition — Skyline Chili and Gold Star are the competing chains. The Findlay Market (the oldest continuously operating public market in Ohio), the revitalised Over-the-Rhine Victorian neighbourhood (one of the largest intact historic urban districts in the United States), and Northside are all excellent. The Kentucky Bourbon Trail is 1 hour south. Formal Gardens at Ault Park are beautiful in spring.