Budapest

Thermal baths, ruin bars and grand architecture along the Danube.

Budapest is one of Europe's great underrated capitals — a city of imperial grandeur, thermal baths, ruin bars and extraordinary cuisine strung along both banks of the Danube. The twin cities of Buda and Pest were only united in 1873, and their distinct characters remain: hilly, castle-topped Buda on the west bank is historic and residential; flat, bustling Pest on the east is commercial, cultural and endlessly energetic. The Parliament Building, reflected in the Danube, is one of the most photographed buildings in Europe; the Chain Bridge, linking the two halves of the city, is a masterpiece of 19th-century engineering. Buda Castle and the Fisherman's Bastion offer panoramic views across the city. The Hungarian National Museum and the House of Terror — a chilling account of life under Nazi and then Soviet occupation — are essential for understanding Hungary's complex history. Budapest's thermal baths are a unique pleasure. Fed by natural hot springs, grand spa complexes like Széchenyi and Gellért are social institutions where locals soak, play chess and relax. The ruin bar scene, born in the derelict Jewish Quarter (Szimpla Kert is the most famous), has made Budapest a European nightlife destination. Hungarian food — goulash, lángos, chimney cake — is hearty and delicious.