Bratislava, Slovakia's small and charming capital, sits on the Danube at the point where Austria, Hungary and Slovakia meet — making it the only capital in the world that borders two other countries. For many years it was overshadowed by its famous neighbours Vienna (1 hour) and Budapest (2.5 hours), but the city has developed genuine character and appeal that rewards a stay of 2–3 days. The compact old town is a delight on foot: the Main Square (Hlavné námestie) with its Roland Fountain, the Primates' Palace and the Slovak National Theatre form the architectural heart. Bratislava Castle, rebuilt after a fire in 1811 left it a ruin, dominates the hill above the Danube and houses the Slovak National Museum with excellent historical collections. Michael's Gate, the only surviving medieval city gate, and the narrow lanes of the old town are best explored on an unhurried afternoon. The craft beer and coffee scene has transformed Bratislava's old town into a more lively and contemporary destination. The Slovak restaurant scene offers excellent value — generous portions of Slovak dumplings (halušky) and bryndza sheep's cheese, schnitzels, and hearty soups. Day trips to Vienna and Budapest are obvious, but the Slovak countryside — the Small Carpathian wine route, Devín Castle ruins at the Austrian border — is also excellent. Spring and summer are the best months.
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