Amalfi

Dramatic cliffs, turquoise waters and colorful villages on the Italian coast.

Amalfi is the most famous town on the Amalfi Coast — a medieval maritime republic that once commanded trade across the Mediterranean and is now a spectacularly situated cliff-side town squeezed between the sea and the vertical walls of the Lattari Mountains. The Cathedral of Sant'Andrea, with its striking Arab-Norman facade and striped campanile, presides over the central piazza just steps from the sea. The historic centre of Amalfi is tiny — its main square (Piazza del Duomo), the Cathedral staircase and the covered market are all within a few minutes' walk. But the pleasure of Amalfi lies in wandering the narrow lanes, climbing steep staircases through residential quarters, and discovering hidden gardens, ceramics workshops and lemon groves (the local sfusato Amalfitano lemon is the basis of excellent limoncello). The Paper Museum (Museo della Carta) in a medieval paper mill tells the story of Amalfi's 13th-century paper-making innovation. The boat trip to the Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto) — similar to Capri's Blue Grotto — is excellent. Day trips by ferry or boat along the coast to Positano, Ravello (the clifftop town with Villa Rufolo gardens) and Praiano are magnificent. The Drive of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) hiking path along the cliffs above Amalfi offers extraordinary views. The coast road connecting these towns is one of the world's most dramatic drives. Visit in May, June or October for the best experience — July and August are extremely crowded.