Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is Provence at its most elegant — a university city of fountains, plane trees, golden stone hôtels particuliers and a refined Provençal joie de vivre that makes it one of southern France's most enjoyable destinations. The city was Paul Cézanne's birthplace and lifelong obsession; his studio (Atelier Cézanne) on the outskirts and the Sainte-Victoire mountain he painted obsessively are both open to visitors. The Cours Mirabeau, Aix's great tree-lined boulevard flanked by 17th and 18th-century mansions, is the city's social spine — two rows of plane trees shade café terraces and a string of fountains. The Saturday market around the Place Richelme and Place des Prêcheurs is one of Provence's finest, overflowing with olives, lavender products, melons, cheese and charcuterie. The Festival d'Aix-en-Provence (opera and classical music, July) is one of France's most prestigious cultural events. The Musée Granet holds an excellent collection of European painting, and its annexe at the Caumont Centre d'Art in an 18th-century mansion stages excellent temporary exhibitions. The Thermal Baths district, the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville and the Saint-Sauveur Cathedral are architectural highlights. The surrounding Provence countryside — the Luberon, Les Alpilles, Les Calanques near Marseille — is some of France's most beautiful. Aix is expensive by provincial standards but remains excellent value compared to Côte d'Azur prices.